I am also replacing the o ring seal on the vacuum pump. Re- install chain tensioner and seal the front cover. Torque the control valve to 130Nm while the helper counter holds. I will then remove the chain tensioner to allow chain slack for installing the new sprocket.There is a locating pin on the front of the camshaft to aid with alignment/correct position of the new sprocket. I will use a helper to counter hold the camshaft at the rear with torx 60 while I apply torque to loosen the threaded central control valve at the front of the camshaft. Next step will be front cover removal, marking the existing camshaft sprocket with reference marks on the head and the sprocket teeth to use as verification landmarks for timing along with transfer of these marks to the genuine Mercedes replacement sprocket. I have already verified that existing timing is correct using the view through the CPS windows and I have set the crankshaft at 40 degrees after TDC. I now have access to counter-hold at the rear end of the camshaft with a T60. I removed the plastic bulk head (intake) and I removed the vacuum pump at the rear of the intake camshaft, bank 2 ( left bank). Yes, I’m in the middle of the project, and so far the job is going smoothly. In other words is there more slack from the rail adjuster and thus more wiggle room to get the tension either out or back in ( of course, I will compress the plunger on the tension and insert the pin to hold the plunger prior to re-installing) One final question: for the left bank is it easier to remove and install the chain tensioner using 40 degrees after ignition TDC vs. I plan to rotate the engine at least two revolutions to confirm correct timing and double check the specified pulse wheel views (for intake and exhaust) through the position sensor windows per the service manual. I also plan to carefully mark the the existing adjuster, chain and reference point on block prior to removal, so that I can transfer the mark to the new adjuster, and accurately install and verify correct position of the new adjuster. I know the service manual calls for valve cover removal and use of lockdown bars. The torque spec for the center valve calls for 130 Nm, and I don’t want to risk damaging the bearing surfaces on either the intake camshaft or the valve cover. #2: Is it safe to apply torque to loosen or tighten the center valve at the front while a helper applies counter-torque at the rear of the camshaft (using torx 60 bit/breaker bar). #1: If I need more room in the rear, how difficult is it to remove the firewall insulation I am planning to remove the plastic bulkhead, front cover, and vacuum pump on the rear so that I can access both ends of the camshaft. I have seen a brief video and read two other brief forum statements that this repair can be done by front cover removal without involving the valve cover. Other than that there are no additional codes and the car runs great. There is also a 2-3 second cold start rattle then the engine purrs like normal. I now have a trouble code for bank 2 ( left) intake only. I did not have evidence of a camshaft adjuster issue at that time. By the way, I have already installed the recommended oil check valves in the engine block, and new chain tensioners for both banks during a prior project to address cold start engine rattle. My 2013, E 350 (58,000 miles) needs replacement of the left (bank 2), intake camshaft adjuster.
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